![]() ![]() Success with the decal printing, more or less. Next step will be painting much of the interior flat black I tried Gunship Grey first, but decided it was too dark-painted it over with Neutral Grey, which works better. Black as far as I can tell from the photos on this site, and it matches the upholstery.Īlso painted the floor of the back section of the interior. Thus, for things like chrome, gold, aluminum, and copper, enamels are necessary. I stick with acrylics as much as possible, but as mentioned above, acryllic metallics aren't very good in my experience. It really doesn't show up well in the pictures, but the windows and the hood details have been detailed with Chrome paint (Testors#1790), with the help of a Micro Brush (on sale at most hobby stores in a variety of sizes). You make an error on bare plastic, and then cover it with paint, it's more obvious. If you mess up, it's easier to cover the error. Gloss paint is best for decal applicationĢ. I know it feels weird to paint white plastic with white paint, but there's two very good reasons:ġ. The main body has been painted Gloss White. Yeah, I know, maybe I'll stop sticking Minimates in the shots, but maybe I won't. Acrylic metallics really aren't very good, but the "wateriness" actually works well over the flat black to create a sort of "used steel" appearance. I came up with this color combination on accident while doing a Star Trek model it's acrylic silver over flat black, and recently used it deliberately on the treads of a Space Shuttle Mobile Launch Platform, and liked the results so I used it again here. Painted the fuel tank (at least I assume it's the fuel tank) on the bottom of the chassis. If I don't like the results in the end, I'll just paint it flat black like I did the earlier two models. This is one of the options from the instructions I'm gonna try that one. (But since it won't be seen, it doesn't have to be a totally perfect, pretty paint job either) It gives it more of a solid, less toy-like look. These are parts that won't actually be seen when the model is assembled, which makes it feel weird to do at first, but it blocks light and minimizes the translucence of the plastic. This is a little trick I learned from Star Trek modellers: use a dark color, like black or (in this case) Gunship Grey to line the interiors of the pieces. We'll see how feasible that is as the project advances. I'm considering not gluing the body, interior, and chassis together just so I can take it apart and take the Minimates in and out. Fortunately, being Minimates, that's easy to do. The backseat figures had to have their lower halves removed to fit into the car. The Minimates inside the test fit of the main body and the interior. (Obviously, I haven't painted the interior yet) The front seat works pretty darn well. Here we see the Minimates trying out the interior. Also gives me a set of work gloves for all four, and a Giga Meter for Egon) (I bought a set of GB2 movie Minimates with the Slime Blowers for Ray and Winston. The ECTO-1A is the AMT one I bought and made in 1990, when I had no patience and practically slopped it together. Venkman: "I wonder if she's naked under that toga". The Ghostbusters and the ECTO-1A, probably just as they arrived at Liberty Island, December 31, 1988. Venkman's being Slimed and Egon and Janine are making out in the background (Yeah, I never said I had access to a really good digital camera)Ī bit of fun with the Minimates. The Ghostbusters and the classic original ECTO-1 (in GBOT terms, late 1983-1986), the Polar Lights kit from 2002. So, I mentioned in another thread I realized Minimates scale pretty well with the 1/25 models. The 1990s plates are usable, and the 2000s in a pinch, but the logos are sloppy and the 2010+ plates look like mud. I've tried printing those up on decal paper, but I'm having some problems getting the settings right. I put one extra of each of the four designs on, just in case, meaning two GB`1 logos and 3 each of the plates: ECTO-1 plates appropriate from ~2011-Present Some images from Wikipedia helped with the other two sets This would be accurate from 1989-~2000, including EGB ECTO-1 plates basically by photoshopping the ECTO-1A plates. I'm considering some methods of making the plates removeable and interchangeable using magnets, so I actually made three sets of plates: ![]() I also did some work on the license plates. So I took a scan of the decal sheet, and made a copy of the GB1 logo. I need at least one more GB1 logo, since the kit only includes the three appropriate to the original ECTO-1 (It's got four GB2 logos, which is right, but that doesn't really help much). First up, since I'm planning to make it Post-GB2 ECTO-1, as based on the hybrid continuity of the Ghostbusters Omnibus Timeline, I need a few more decals.
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